This year’s trend to use unusual materials for jewelry allows us to take a new look at the concept of natural beauty.
For thousands of years, the planet’s most coveted materials – gold, diamonds and other gemstones – have been formed deep underground. But this year the creative impulse of the leading jewelers has led them to use often completely unexpected materials, which give new meaning to the concept of natural beauty.
Boucheron’s Bleu de Jodhpur collection was presented in Paris, where creative director Claire Chouhan explored the mysteries of India in search of inspiration. Together with the best craftsmen of the jewelry house she spent many months honing the art of processing Makran marble from which the legendary Taj Mahal is built.
The Plume de Paon jewelry line is dominated by the image of a bird’s feather, reminiscent of traditional maharajah headdresses. Shuang was able to skillfully combine the sparkle of diamonds and the delicate texture of white marble. The contrast between the gravity of the stone and the lightness of the image it conveys is a truly incredible design feat.
To create another original piece of jewelry, the Nagaur necklace, named after the fortress of the same name, Claire brought sand from the Thar Desert in Rajasthan. The sand is encased in a rock crystal capsule, which is decorated in the style of Indian architecture and suspended on pearl threads.
Inspired by the natural beauty of a bird’s feather, Piaget has created a unique emerald Serenissima bracelet, part of the Secrets and Lights collection. Its dainty white gold base is adorned with a peacock feather motif composed of sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds. This bracelet was worked on by Nelly Saunier, who has been creating feather ornaments for leading jewelry houses for years. To design this jewelry, inspired by the mysterious Venetian masks, she had to work as a bird hairdresser for 10 different birds.
For a more relaxed, beachy mood, jewelry house Qayten offers wooden bracelets with gold leaf and diamond pave. John Hardy turned a tropical clam shell into a ring: matte color, texture and intricate ornamentation of color contrast wonderfully with polished gold and shining diamonds and sapphires, creating the mood of a carefree evening on the French Riviera.
Shagreen & Tortoise also decided to use a real seashell as the basis for the ring named Grizzly Star. Like an avant-garde sculpture, the broken lines of the shell, adorned with dark bands, and the top of the composition is a rose quartz in a vermeil setting.
Brazilian jewelry designer Silvia Furmanovic turned to beautiful flora and immortalized the juicy colors and tenderness of orchids in transparent resin. Her airy earrings with real flower petals were recognized as the most innovative jewelry at the Couture Show 2015. We can only agree with the jury: what could be more beautiful than the beauty of nature creatively presented by a talented designer?